Panel 3 -- Beginner's (climbing) post
TABLE OF CONTENTS of this chain:
3/ Beginner's (climbing) post
4/
5/ Access
6/
7/ References
8/
9/
10/
11/
12/ Ratings and grades
13/
14/ In memoriam
15/
16/
17/
18/ Climbing GIFs
19/
20/ Weather
21/ Climbing glossary
22/
23/
24/
25/
26/ Climbing Humor
27/ Legal issues
28/ Alternative ways to read rec.climbing
1/ DISCLAIMER
2/ Previous topics
So you want to learn how to climb?
Why?
First some statistics
The Hazards/Disclaiming Climbing
Well, why not making climbing safer?
What are the odds of dying?
How far must I fall before I hurt myself?
What you specifically need to be warned about...
***THE GIST***
So Where's the Fun?
What kinds of climbing?
How do I go about learning to climb?
Women
Equipment
So what is helpful?
Technique
Ratings
Who?
Competitive Climbing
Do you still want to learn how to climb?
Your memories
This is the post for beginners. It is not for instructors except to hand
to beginners.
... like a child that runs in the road, and the parent is very upset,
and says "It's very dangerous!" But the child comes back and says,
"But nothing happened," and he runs out in the road again,
several times, and the parent says, "It's dangerous!"
Nothing happens. If the child's view that nothing happened is
a clue that nothing is going to happen, then there's going to be
an accident.
-- Richard P. Feynman, Nobel Laureate
on safety during the Challenger accident investigation
We do not deceive ourselves that we are engaging in an activity
that is anything but debilitating, dangerous, eurphoric, kinesthetic,
expensive, frivolously essential, economically useless and
totally without redeeming social significance. One should not probe
for deeper meanings.
--Allen Steck, 1967
So you want to learn how to climb?
Why?
This post is a test of self-knowledge, because once you pass this point,
you will have far more serious problems than you may have ever faced
before in your life. This is the time to turn back.
First some statistics
1) Until the advent of what is termed "s****t climbing," 90% of those
wi****ng
to learn to climb sought a one-time experience. Many people are satified
for their single experience going climbing (with friends, with a school or
a service). Nothing wrong with that, but it just scratches the service.
One-time climbing is typically characterized by an activity called
rappelling: the technique of descending a rope using friction to arrest
one's descent. Very visual, very spectacular. It is one of the major
causes
of death in climbing. Many people wish to get into this once for purposes
such as over coming fear of heights, building personal character,
or any one of a finite number of rationalizations.
It's easy to do, typically late in the day to get down when people are
tired and drop their guard causes many methods.
2) 9% of those seeking to learn to climb to expand their
outdoor recreational horizons. It's an extension to backpacking or
age old dreams to get up some where.
These are "repeat offending weekend warriors." That's humor.
[Climbing humor is frequently morbid. Get used to it]
3) About 1% of the general population getting into this field are in it
for
the long haul. Literally: they are the crazies. Crazies? Why?
The Hazards/Disclaiming Climbing
The desire to go climbing defies many people's concept of logic.
It brings in the bread for less than 0.1% of the climbing community.
You might hear all kinds of neat beautiful experiences about climbing,
but you'll have time for that later. You can't blame anyone but yourself.
Because from this point on, you are about to engage in one of the more
hazardous avocations in modern society.
Climbing is relatively safe, but only because we have instilled a degree
of paranoia in all climbers to take precautions. Modern climbing makes
implicit assumptions that the worst (not quite) will happen and it trains
(techniques like belaying and self-arrest) to deal with these situations.
SO.
I) Climbing is hazardous. You can get killed climbing.
At present count five readers/posters are ex-s.
Mountains are not fair or unfair -- they are just dangerous.
--Reinhold Messner
The world is a dangerous place for life.
--Marvin Minsky
ftp://ftp.ai.mit.edu/pub/minsky/NegExp.mss.txt
Date: Jan 4, 1994
Negative Expertise
Marvin Minsky
Published as "Negative Expertise,"
International Journal of Expert Systems, 1994,
Vol. 7, No. 1, pp. 13-19.
ARE YOU READY TO DIE? (no joke)
You can kill someone climbing.
This is a little bit different experience for most people but a real
possibly.
ARE YOU READY TO KILL SOMEONE ELSE? (no joke)
II) The typical image of someone dying climbing is falling. In the words
of a recent popular film: Gravity is a *****. But not everyone dies
falling. Many times objects will fall on you: rock, ice, someone else's
gear, lightning, etc. The vast majority of climbing deaths are
attributable
to inexperience/careless neglect not failed equipment [beginners and
intermediates concern themselves with equipment: they are sometimes called
"equipment/gear freaks"]. Many who die climbing are really novices who
are re****ted as climbers. For the very good climbers who make the
paper, many more novices are quietly carried away in a stretcher and may
appear in some small obit some where. Scared yet? Remember this is the
time to turn around. Climber error (incorrect judgment) is one of the
biggest
contributing fatality factors.
Climbers are not oblivious to heights. Most have a healthy respect for
heights, but as a climber, you cannot afford vertigo or a lapse of
judgment.
There exists a difference between fear and panic.
Climbing hazards necessitate sometimes regimented behaviors.
Consider bungie jumping instead.
Climbers intensely dislike non-climbers or beginning climbers
inappropriately
talking about climbing. A non-climber giving known bad (well-meaning,
but potentially lethal) climbing advice may be lynched.
Other hazards are much more subtle: for instance in the winter frostbite
can maim or cripple. During any time, hypothermia can be a problem except
for indoor climbing. You can starve to death on longer expeditions, but
whose counting here?
Well, why not making climbing safer?
Climbers tend to distrust the complexities of bureaucracies.
If we want to be safe, the logical conclusion is to stop climbing.
And if you want to be safe you should stop reading right now,
unsubscribe from reading this group, and carry on with your life as if
nothing happened. The usual climbing response is that safety taken
to it's logical extreme means living inside in a padded cell. Which is
okay
for some people.
To experienced climbers, climbing is "safe enough."
The issue is not adrenline. Most climbers are not adrenline junkies.
They don't have time to be AJs, and climbing is too much effort.
Climbers must assume a degree of their own personal responsibility.
Insurance won't help; lawyers won't help; democracy won't help.
Gravity is a *****. Want to sue you partner? How much money is an ascent
worth? Waviers are worthless; you can sign them, but they are easily
challenged in courts. Climbing has big issues right now on liability,
ethics/style (what ever you want to call it), and they derive from
assumptions of "the social contract" in the eyes of many. Additionally,
your
non-climbing family can also sue after the occurance of your death further
accentuating the libaility problem.
Climbers are NOT HEROS. This is discussed (several times so far).
Climbing is a poor method of building character. It's comparatively
time consuming and expensive. Cheaper ways to build characters.
We have discussed educational tragedies where kids haved died on outings.
Character builders are directed to other activities to do their thing.
Heros are great people. To understand heroism, begin with the phrase:
...Above and beyond the call of duty....
Enough said on this.
What are the odds of dying?
Short answer: About 1:25000. Highway deaths were 1:20000 until the
advent of mandatory seat belt laws when your odds on the highway improved
to 1:40000 and getting better. The highways are now safer than climbing
(many climbers have died driving to and from climbs). This is all a
gross generalization; I am aware some of the methods for these
calculations (climbing data is sparse in mathematical terms).
Enough said about this.
How far must I fall before I hurt myself?
Your falling isn't the simple issue. Other things can fall, too.
Helmets are occasionally discussed because of this.
Given the proper conditions six inches of avalanche debris can suffocate
you.
It happened in a Canadian city river side park. You only need inches to
twist an ankle (8-10 weeks to heal). Most people can fall 10 feet to
the ground and sustain minor injuries (or none, and this assumes a clean
landing, most climb starts aren't), but a few people can kill themselves
with a 10 foot fall. 20 feet? The probability is higher. 50 ft? 100 ft?
Longest falls? Then you start asking about survivability records:
a couple of people have survived falls from airliners travelling at 30K
ft.
But most don't. The basic answer is: not far. A human body is really
nothing more than a sack of water as far as physics is concern. Lethal
falls
do all kinds of structural damage normally reserved for war, most of you
don't
want the gorey details of how your friend's face turned into a bloated
sphere because all the bones were broken. As a minimium you must be
willing
to accept this risk as a basic responsibility, factor in any
considerations
you want regarding non-climbing, close personal family and friends whom
might regard you as irresponsible to the famliy. They might be the ones
suing your partners, instructor, etc. Climber/non-climber marriages are
sore point for divorce (discussed).
This responsibility will come out time and time again in discussion.
It won't stop (liability, litigation, insurance, certification, etc.),
nor should it. Get out now.
What you specifically need to be warned about...
***THE GIST***
Avoid ANY pressure from spouses, relatives, close friends, etc.
TO considering climbing. They can kill you. They might not mean to
kill you but they can. Social pressure is one of the worst, most
dangerous reasons for you to possibly get into climbing. It can cause
grief not only to you, but your friends, your climbing partners, your
family, you can put rescuers and instructors at hazard, increase insurance
rates on climbers you don't know, etc. No kidding.
If you don't want to climb, then don't go climbing. Say, "No."
Just don't say, "No" half way UP the climb. This irks instructors
and fellow students (which only adds more pressure increasing the
likelihood of an accident). If you are ever on a climb, socially
pressured
to do something beyond your ability, the joke is on you, not society.
Previously, you could resort to aid climbing (you might learn about that),
but less so these days.
So Where's the Fun?
That's the question of many non-climbers. It's a lot of work, rarely is
there money, fame and glory are fleeting, conventional social reward isn't
found.
One humorous answer is: because you feel so much better when you have
stopped.
A good deal of truth derives from this. Imagine: thrusting your hands
into
a jam crack, squeezing the palm such that the back of the hand grinds
itself
into sharp feldspar crystals to sup****t your weight. Look at the backs of
some of our hands. This is fun? Sure.
The fun is a personal, internal state. Only time will tell whether you
like
going climbing. We will not attempt to answer an age old question here.
What kinds of climbing?
S****t climbing
You may be very good climbing face. Let's say you can climb 5.10 face.
But if you are only a 5.6 crack climber, then you are over all
a 5.6 climber.
Experience on artificial climbing wall might be fine for practicing
technique but it fails to prepare you for "easy low angled friction"
or "cracks" or "bad weather" or any one of a number of other hazards.
One problem with walls is that they are easily mastered. They provide
sometimes useful conditioning.
Peak bagging
If you "bag peaks," your impression of this group is like to be that
it is filled with pure rock climbers. This is partially true.
It's part of the current climbing fad. There's nothing to prevent
you from posting except yourself. Others have resorted to posting
in other groups like rec.backcountry instead. That's your choice.
You need a stiff lip to hang around here.
Rock climbing
Bouldering
Requires the least amount of gear.
Without question the purist form of climbing.
A safer variant of boulder is called TR or "Top Roping."
Free soloing
A special version of climbing solo without a rope is
known as free soloing. This game has perhaps some
of the most dangerous aspects of climbing. There is
almost no margin for error. It is especially dumped
on in discussion by people from the Pacific North West
and areas where particularly regimented climbing clubs
exist (fervent helmet wearers, etc.). The net thrashes
this topic every so often.
Crag climbing (weekend warriors)
The image of climbers with ropes and gear holding onto the
rock is this image. Multipitch rock climbing at its best.
The second largest reader****p.
Wall (Big Wall) climbing
Wall climbing is the major bastion of what's called "aid
climbing." Aid climbing use gear to directly sup****t
(aid) your weight on a wall. This contrasts with "free"
climbing where the gear is only used in event of falling
or "protection." Mixed aid and free climbing are call
"mixed climbing."
Alpinism
Yet a smaller percentage of climbers does this.
"Mixed climbing" here means rock and snow/ice climbing.
Expedition climbing
The most expensive form of climbing. Is it dying out in favor of
light weight super alpine climbing? Maybe. No rules, no holds barred.
The objective is simply to get up. You can use ladders, mortars
(no kidding), helicopters, whatever to help you get up.
How do I go about learning to climb?
Climbing education is not regulated in the United States unlike
other countries. We have no certification body or procedures unlike
activities such as SCUBA diving, sky diving, or learning to climb in
some of the Alpine countries. Cl***** and books only marginally exist
when it comes to things like expeditions. You largely go through a
process of initiation in one of the easier forms of climbing. Climbing
is a progression from the easier to the harder. Once your ability peaks,
then it's up to you to move laterally to seek out other areas and
generalize
your experience. There are four basic ways to learn.
Mentors.
Takes the longest time, hardest to find, highest quality education.
Hard to find a good mentor. Don't ask. That's part of the paradox.
A gifted student can be very good in about two years; student skill
depends on applicable experience.
Schools/cl*****.
Moderately easy to locate (some the Yellow Pages [tm]). A bit pricey.
Sometimes called in the trade: "degree mills."
The graduates of one school (name not to be mentioned) have suggested
if a person is incapable of lcating their organization using a phone book,
then these persons are accidents waiting to happen, and their school does
not want them. Seriously, use 800 numbers.
Better schools will involve more age ranges (like students and faculty).
Watch for this. More homogeneous mixes mean more clueless people of the
same experience level.
Occasionally amusing discussion about "signing off" and ability.
See how much you say, "The book says.." or "By [buy] the book."
Some of the better known firms:
NOLS, National Outdoor Leader****p School
Outward Bound
Some stores like REI teach limited cl*****.
Guides.
Most expensive. Most personallized care (you are paying for it).
A guide does not do the climb for you. A guide does not "haul you up"
[this is an expression in the trade (we do)].
A guide only tries to see that you do not kill yourself (and him/her).
Yosemite Mountaineering
Exum Guides (Teton)
Rainier Mountaineering
Alpine Skills Institute (CA)
Clubs.
Cheap. Some times questionable. Occasionally adequate.
This is how most people get started. Organizations of late have become
rather controversial because they have taken on longer term ethical
and environmental issues in some cases.
Many organizations, universities/colleges/high schools, youth groups.
Better schools will involve more age ranges (like students and faculty).
Watch for this. More homogeneous mixes mean more clueless people of the
same experience level.
Occasionally amusing discussion about "signing off" and ability.
See how much you say, "The book says.." or "By [buy] the book."
AMC
CMC
Mountaineers
Mazamas
Sierra Club
Az MC
...
Several other organizations for the exchange of information (not training)
American Alpine Club
Austrian Alpine Club
The Alpine Club of Canada
Box 2040
Canmore, Alberta
T0L 0M0
CANADA
(403) 678-3200
(403) 678-3224(fax)
French Alpine Club (CAF)
Swiss Alpine Club
British Mountaineering Council
...
Most of these are under the UIAA (the international union of the above)
and in the US
AMGA: American Mountain Guide Association
Access Fund (see two other panels)
Numermous other organizations exist at universities, in the phone books,
etc.
sheclimbs, inc.
sheclimbs is a national (actually, US and Canada) women's
climbing organization. Our mission is to provide a venue for
women and girls to find climbing partners and experience climbing in a
safe
and empowering environment. ((or something like that)).
We've been around since 1995.
Contact information:
Nan Burmeister, president: n2climbin@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Schwartz, treasurer: vschwart@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
quote one of the women who reads this group: This seems to be a
male dominated activity. Very true. The F:M ratio was <10% at the start
of the 1970s and it is only slowly reaching 50% of the climbing populus.
Women are subject to the same laws of physics as men. They bleed like
men and can die like them. Climbing is perceived as a macho male thing,
more so the hazards of testosterone poisoning. The climbing literature
notes such differences like
1) Beginning women tend to finesse moves where beginner men power or use
strength to overcome obstacles. Women have a better overall strength to
weight ratio, but most note that do fewer pull ups (not that that that's
a good measure).
2) Being lighter has problems for things like hauling on big walls (not
something you will do as a beginner.
These are all generalizations, and your mileage as a female climber will
vary (use 1 to your advantage and just keep aware of 2 when you do BWs).
Individual differences are im****tant here. Beware aware of testosterone
harassment. Have fun, especially don't let the males pressure you
UNLESS you are part way up a climb. Gravity does not discriminate.
Estrogen has no advantages when it comes to falling.
Find other women to climb with if that would make you feel more
comfortable
in the early stages.
Equipment
Climbing is one of the least expensive activities you can engage.
It might not seem such to the beginner with the cost of nylon, the
metal technology, etc., but that all comes with time and lots of money
later. Ac***ulate slowly. Mentors and climbing partners can and usually
are glad to lend you gear WHEN YOU CLIMB with them. [It means they don't
have to use your unfamiliar gear.]
Avoid buying anything at the start. You really need very little.
Well after the first day, specialized rock (or ice) shoes can help,
but you will not use them to any degree of precision, so their affect is
largely wasted. You can get a harness, maybe a few slings, and.
So what is helpful?
You can't really learn to climb from a book (nor the net for that matter).
But there are decent ideas and concepts in books to get you started,
to minimize the usual cruft instructors have to deal with so you can spend
more time climbing:
1) It's useful to learn knots. Just a few. DO: BUT JUST DON'T BLOW IT.
[You would be amazed at the number of climbers killed each year
because they blew their knots. Evolution in action.]
2) Do read about the basic concepts behind climbing techniques. Most of
it kinesthetic. You must learn to refine your sense of balance
and apply strength to a minimum (conserve your energy).
3) You will hear about other aspects like timing. This comes with
judgment.
The s****t climbers look to time like some gymnasts. Alpine climbers
look upon slow climbers as dead (See the climb
"The Run-Don't-Walk Couloir [what's a couloir {a gully} books are
decent for teaching you terminiology but use with care]).
Terminology is useful: e.g., couloir, chimney, arete, draw, cwm,
zawn, slab, dihedral, open-book, lay back, roof, bomb bay,
tension traverse, pendulum (+ and -), etc. are useful.
4) Don't stand around kibbitzing. Climb as much as you can. If you are
socializing, you are not climbing. The exception is on small belay
ledges. Communicate with your partners. Think of climbing like a
taxi meter, the more time you rack up, the more experienced you
become.
Technique
Climbing is largely balance. Not strength. Balance also determines the
value of strength by how much energy you expend climbing. Climbing can
become complex because it involves the interplay of many elements:
you partner, your gear, your skill and technique. It has to be
experienced. You can read about it.
Ratings
As a beginner: don't worry about ratings.
A rating is a numerical mapping of a move on a climb: a step, or a reach.
It is an objective attempt to classify something which is inherently
subjective. Climbs are usually rated: 1) by an experienced climber doing
the climb on lead (not top rope). 2) By a first (and subsequent) ascent
party,
Climbers aren't rated. Climbs (pitches and moves) are rated. Climbers no
more
rate climbers than peak baggers rate how high they have climbed as
a 14,000 ft? 28,000 feet? It's silly and arbitrary and abuse of
mathematics.
Don't worry about it.
Newbies confuse grades with ratings.
Who?
Climbing initially attracted a lot of nerds into an area regarded as
"unconventional s****t." In some respects it has taken on more mainstream
elements, but face it, it boring to watch for most people. Literally from
the perspective of society, most climbers are crazies. The best example
of this is soloing: climbing alone, sometimes without a rope.
It's done. No one's going to stop it, few speak against it except in the
Pacific North West and areas with strongly bureaucratic climbing clubs.
Sociological studies exist on the population of US climbers.
See the references.
Competitive Climbing
As cited by Ken Wilson: its origins came from the former USSR when the
Ministry of S****t had nothing better to do. It developed speed climbing.
We now live with it.
Competition is a particularly unusual undercurrent. Many people get into
climbing, because it is either perceived as non-competitive or
self-competitive (self challenge). The truth is some where in between as
many climbers acknowledge a non-head to head competitive spirit (not me,
don't ask me, I'm non-competitive). Don't get suckered in. The term
sometimes used is "sand bagged."
Later.
Do you still want to learn how to climb?
Maybe not. Think about.
Well you have stayed to the very end. You might be a potential climber.
The next thing is to get on the rock or ice and actually try climbing.
The way this works: if you can't take adverse verbal material,
how would you otherwise be able to take the real, physical stress of a
climb?
This post is far too long. I don't like it myself. Gives you an idea how
complicated climbing is. Cheaper not to start.
Your memories
(net topics)
Frequent net relevant topics
First leader fall
First belay to catch a long leader fall
First retreat
When you decided to give up ... [fill in some type of climbing]
Never let anyone tell you that climbing is safe. It isn't.
----- tag line -----
From: mmaurer@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(Michael George Maurer)
Subject: ACCIDENT STATISTICS (was increase accidents)
If you want stats scroll down and skip my soapboxing.
I would like to give a plug for the American Alpine Club.
Every year they publish a little book titled
ACCIDENTS IN NORTH AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERING.
You can learn a lot from this book, I know I have. Basicly it features
re****ts of accidents and usualy an analysis as well, some re****ts the
victim
provides his/her own analysis, sometimes it is from the rescuer or the
editor.
It also has a large number of statistics that run back to 1951. Granted
the data is only as good as the number of people re****ting in, but many
Nation Parks (Yosemite, Denali, Rocky Mountain National Park, Joshua Tree)
send re****ts every year. Canada is also included (but not Mexico.
The re****ts come out in January and are always a year behind. The 1992
re****t
covers accidents from 1991.
Get a hold of it and study it, the life you save may be your own.
Table I
# accidents persons invovled Injured Killed
USA CAN USA CAN USA CAN USA CAN
1951 15 22 11 3
1952 31 35 17 13
1953 24 27 12 12
1954 31 41 31 8
1955 34 39 28 6
1956 46 72 54 13
1957 45 53 28 18
1958 32 39 23 11
1959 42 2 56 2 31 0 19 2
1960 47 4 64 12 37 8 19 4
1961 49 9 61 14 45 10 14 4
1962 71 1 90 1 64 0 19 1
1963 68 11 79 12 47 10 19 2
1964 53 11 65 16 44 10 14 3
1965 72 0 90 0 59 0 21 0
1966 67 7 80 9 52 6 16 3
1967 74 10 110 14 63 7 33 5
1968 70 13 87 19 43 12 27 5
1969 94 11 125 17 66 9 29 2
1970 129 11 174 11 88 5 15 5
1971 110 17 138 29 76 11 31 7
1972 141 29 184 42 98 17 49 13
1973 108 6 131 6 85 4 36 2
1974 96 7 177 50 75 1 26 5
# ACCIDENTS # PERSONS # INJURED # KILLED
1975 78 7 158 22 66 8 19 2
1976 137 16 303 31 210 9 53 6
1977 121 30 277 49 106 21 32 11
1978 118 17 221 19 85 6 42 10
1979 100 36 137 54 83 17 40 19
1980 191 29 295 85 124 26 33 8
1981 97 43 223 119 80 39 39 6
1982 140 48 305 126 120 43 24 14
1983 187 29 442 76 169 26 37 7
1984 182 26 459 63 174 15 26 6
1985 195 27 403 62 190 22 17 3
1986 203 31 406 80 182 25 37 14
1987 192 25 377 79 140 23 32 9
1988 156 18 288 44 155 18 24 4
1989 141 18 272 36 124 11 17 9
1990 136 25 245 50 125 24 24 4
1991 169 20 302 66 147 11 9 6
TOTALS 4040 584 7149 1289 3455 464 985 303
Selected bits from Table III
Imiediate Cause 1951-1990 1991
(top 5) USA CAN USA CAN
Fall or slip on rock 1837 175 59 8
Slip on snow or ice 638 129 30 5
Falling rock or object 398 101 12 0
Exceeding Abilities 312 27 12 0
Exposure 196 12 15 0
CONTRIBUTARY CAUSE (top 10)
Placed no/inadaquate protection
313 34 30 5
Exceeding abilities 750 134 21 8
Climbing Unroped 788 118 19 7
Inadequate equipment 461 55 16 5
Weather 294 33 14 2
Climbing alone 266 47 12 1
tie for #7
No hard hat 155 18 11 0
Poor Position 62 8 11 1
Inadequate Belay 46 5 10 0
Nut/Chock pulled out 133 10 8 2
Other 152 41 32 8
1951 - 1990 1991
USA CAN USA CAN
Experience Level
None/little 1333 240 14 12
Moderate (1-3 Years) 1187 260 31 24
Experienced 1027 279 44 16
Unknown 1083 196 42 14
Most common Injury Since 1984 1991
Fracture 458 58 88 11
laceration 215 19 19 7
abrasion 116 12 29 7
bruise 105 16 42 6
sprain/strain 106 10 24 2
Concussion 55 6 13 1
frost bite 45 3 12 1
Dislocation 26 3 8 2
puncture 15 2 4 0
HAPE (high altitude Puliminary Edema)
31 0 3 0
Acute Mountain Sickness 9 0 2 0
CE 4 0 1 0
Other 90 19 28 1
none 22 3 12 0
ps. Sometimes well known climbers accidents are in there, like Greg Child
or Todd Skinner & Paul Piana, an accident can happen to anyone.
--
"...the rules of the game must be constantly updated to keep up with the
expanding technology. Otherwise we overkill the classic climbs and delude
ourselves into thinking we are better climbers than the pioneers."
Yvon Chouinard e-mail
mmaurer@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
North America's Top Mountaineering Schools *
Here are OAO's selections as the best Mountaineering Programs in the
country
that offer a special focus for novices, and experienced climbers who are
looking to acquire the skills to challenge a major peak. You will find
more
details on many of these schools in their separate profile contained in
the
Guides & Tours section of OAO.
American Alpine Institute (AAI)
1515 12th Street, Bellingham, WA 98225, (206) 671-1505.
Programs: mountaineering, rock, ice, winter skills, guided climbs, ski
mountaineering, mountain rescue. AMGA Accredited.
AAI conducts a fine basic climbing course of 6, 12 or 24 days which covers
alpine mountaineering skills and glacier travel technique. The program
operates in the Cascades and is suitable for all skill levels. AAI also
leads
ascents of major peaks and offers both climbing and ski mountaineering
expeditions to Mt. McKinley and other Alaskan destinations. We strongly
recommend AAI's programs in Mexico and South America. Rock-climbing is
taught
in Baja, and AAI leads groups each year to climb the three Mexican
volcanoes.
A number of summit expeditions, suitable for novice mountaineers, are run
to
20,000'+ peaks in Ecuador, Argentina, and Bolivia. AAI is a very
well-established operation that offers the complete spectrum of
mountaineering services at moderate prices. Rating: ****
Colorado Mountain School (CMS)
P.O. Box 2062, Estes Park, CO 80517, (800) 444-0730, (303) 567-5758.
Programs: mountaineering, rock, ice, guided climbs, treks, ski
mountaineering. AMGA Accredited.
Colorado Mountain School earns our endorsement as one of the nation's very
best. It does a great job with novices, yet it also offers challenging
multi-pitch climbs for intermediates looking to become advanced climbers
with
the ability to lead. In addition to its rock courses, CMS conducts
expeditions to major peaks around the world, including Mt. McKinley and
Mooses Tooth in Alaska, Mt. Logan in the Yukon, the Mexican volcanoes,
Huascaran and Aconcagua in Latin America, and Kilimanjaro in Africa. At
$925-$995, CMS's three volcanoes trip is a bargain-priced introduction to
high-altitude climbing. CMS has drawn high praise from past participants,
particularly for its attention to individual student needs and its great
Rocky Mountain climbing sites. Rating: ***
Exum Mountain Guides
Grand Teton National Park, Box 56, Moose, WY 83012, (307) 733-2297
Programs: mountaineering, rock, ice, mountain rescue. AMGA Accredited.
Exum provides the most experienced and versatile alpine guide service in
the
northern Rockies. Exum is one of the oldest climbing schools in North
America, having operated in the Tetons since 1935. Exum's former and
current
guides include many of America's most famous climbers. Customized training
programs for all levels can be arranged, and Exum can put together a
guided
ascent to Grand Teton as well as dozens of local peaks. The rock program
is
outstanding, with some of the best instructors anywhere. Exum also offers
a
full range of winter programs, from ice-climbing to ski touring. Rating:
****
Jackson Hole Mountain Guides & Climbing School
P.O. Box 7477, 165 N. Glenwood, Jackson, WY 83001, (307) 733-4979
Programs: mountaineering, rock, ice, guided climbs, winter skills, ski
mountaineering. AMGA Accredited.
The Jackson Hole Mountain Guides & Climbing school, the only year-round
climbing service in the Tetons, is widely acknowledged as one of the very
best in the business. The school offers a wide variety of programs, with
small cl***** and very skilled guides. Patagonia's company founder, Yvon
Chouinard, has stated that "Jackson Hole Mountain Guides is one of the few
really serious mountain guide services in the States. They not only offer
excellent instruction for the beginning climber but their guides are
qualified to take you on any level climb, whether rock, ice or ski
mountaineering."
For beginners, we suggest the 4-day Grand Teton Climber Course (about
$550)
which features an ascent of Grand Teton summit on the final day. Experts
will
enjoy the 8-day Advanced Climbing Course (about $1,100). Jackson Hole
Mountain Guides also features outstanding ice seminars, as well as custom
guided climbs. Prices are subject to change. Rating: ****
National Outdoor Leader****p School (NOLS)
288 Main Street, Lander, WY 82520, (307) 332-69733; fax: (307) 332-1220;
E-Mail: admissions@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
mountaineering, rock, ice, expeditions, mountain rescue, outdoor
survival, ski mountaineering. AMGA Accredited.
NOLS is much more than a climbing school, offering a broad range of
outdoor
activities including trekking and sea kayaking. Its mountaineering
programs
tend to be longer in duration (3 to 5 weeks) and more intensive than other
schools listed here. The climbing skills instruction is very thorough and
safety oriented, though NOLS doesn't always use the latest equipment or
state-of-the-art techniques. As a result, NOLS climbers may be burdened
with
heavier packs than one might carry with a more progressive guide service.
Rating: ***
Rainier Mountaineering Inc.
535 Dock Street, Tacoma, WA 98402, (206) 627-6242; Summer Address: Mount
Rainier National Park, Paradise, WA 98397
Programs: mountaineering, winter skills, mountain rescue, ice, guided
climbs.
AMGA Accredited.
Rainier Mountaineering is the only guide service on 14,410' Mt. Rainier,
the
highest peak on the West Coast. Rainier Mountaineering is best known for
its
ice and snow training and Rainier summit work. Among the 1-day programs
offered are the snow and ice school, crevasse rescue program, basic
rock-climbing school, and Rainier summit climb. Longer programs include a
6-day mountain medicine seminar, a 5-day expedition seminar featuring trip
planning, logistics and glacier camping along with a summit climb, and an
annual Mt. McKinley expedition. Rating: ***
Yamnuska, Inc.
P.O.Box 1920, 1316 Railway Avenue, Canmore, AB, TOL OMO, CANADA, (403)
678-4164, Fax: (403) 678-4450
Programs: Mountaineering, expeditions, climbs, rock, ice climbing, outdoor
leader****p programs
Yamnuska, with some of the most qualified and experienced guides in
Canada,
offers a wide variety of mountaineering programs ranging from 3 day
introductions (Mt. Athabasca) to 5 day multi-pitch camps in the Canadian
Rockies. Each year Yamnuska also leads a number of international summit
expeditions. Canmore is the site for ice programs each winter ranging from
novice weekends to 5 day ice tours. Skiing weekends and guided ski touring
is
offered for all skill levels. Outdoor Leader****p programs are also
conducted.
All guides are UIAGM certified, a rigorous standard few American guides
have
satisfied.
Transmitted: 94-11-05 01:28:11 EST
* Leading Regional Rock Climbing Guide Services *
Here are 12 outstanding rock-climbing schools/guiding services based in
North
America. In most cases their primary focus is technical climbing, although
many also offer programs in alpine expedition skills, mountain rescue, or
outdoor leader****p.
Adirondack Alpine Adventures
P.O. Box 179, Keene, NY 12942, (518) 576-9881.
Adirondack Alpine Adventures (AAA), now in its 10th year, offers a very
broad
range of training programs in rock and ice-climbing--over 100 different
courses conducted year-round. The popular 2-day Intro to the Vertical
World
features rapelling, belaying and top-roped climbs for $160, a good value.
Weeklong beginning, intermediate and advanced rock seminars are also
offered
from May through October for $480. For strong climbers (those who can
follow
a 5.7 pitch), AAA conducts a 5-day seminar on leading. Specialty cl*****
in
double rope technique and "hard rock" (5.8+ difficulty) are also a
challenge.
Small class sizes are guaranteed. Rating: ***
Eastern Mountain S****ts Climbing School
Main Street, P.O. Box 514, North Conway, NH 03860, (603) 356-5433.
In business for over 20 years, the EMS Climbing School in North Conway,
New
Hamp****re, offers reasonably priced courses for those looking to master
the
fundamentals of rock-climbing. It shares the superb Cathedral and White
Horse
Ledges with rival climbing school IMCS. Visit both companies and pick a
guide
who suits your style--both schools have very skilled instructors. We
recommend the 4-day basic program, which costs $365 for a group of two,
and
$580 for one-on-one instruction--the best way to learn. Novices can take
the
1-day beginner or intermediate course for $110, but once you get past the
knot-tying and safety lessons, this doesn't allow much time on the rock.
Rating: ***
Exum Mountain Guides
Grand Teton National Park, Box 56, Moose, WY 83012, (307) 733-2297.
Programs:
mountaineering, rock, ice, mountain rescue. AMGA Accredited.
Exum provides the most experienced and versatile alpine guide service in
the
northern Rockies. Exum is one of the oldest climbing schools in North
America, having operated in the Tetons since 1935. Exum's former and
current
guides include many of America's most famous climbers. Customized training
programs for all levels can be arranged, and Exum can put together a
guided
ascent to Grand Teton as well as dozens of local peaks. The rock program
is
outstanding, with some of the best instructors anywhere. Exum also offers
a
full range of winter programs, from ice-climbing to ski touring. Rating:
****
Fantasy Ridge Guide Service
c/o Michael Covington, P.O. Box 1679, Telluride, CO 81435, (303) 728-3546.
Michael Covington's Fantasy Ridge Guide Service is one of the most
respected
rock schools in the business. His operation offers superb rock-climbing
seminars in Telluride, as well as ice-climbing courses each winter in
Ouray,
Colorado. Both winter and summer courses run $500-$750 for 5 days, and
custom
guiding is also available on an hourly basis. These technical programs are
truly superior, with low student/guide ratios, and customized instruction
closely matched to the student's abilities. The instructors are all superb
climbers. Fantasy Ridge also offers alpine expeditions to Denali ($2,700+)
and Aconcagua ($3,100+). Rating: *****
High Angle Adventures, Inc.
5 River Road, New Paltz, New York 12561, (914) 658-9811. AMGA Accredited.
High Angle Adventures is one of the most professional operations on the
East
Coast, boasting 20 years of experience in the Shawangunks. It has
top-notch
guides, many of whom are 5.13-rated climbers, capable of leading even the
most difficult pitches. The climbing site is superb, a major rock wall two
and one-half miles long. High-friction quartzite rock and abundant
horizontal
striations offer good holds that allow even novices to climb with
confidence.
A 1-day course (three students maximum) costs $130, including all
equipment,
even climbing shoes. One-on-one training, particularly popular with
intermediates, costs $180 per day. High Angle's base at New Paltz is less
than two hours from New York City. Rating: ***
The International Mountain Climbing School (IMCS)
Main Street, North Conway, NH 03860, (603) 356-7013. AMGA Accredited.
We can recommend IMCS without reservation as one of the best operations in
the country. Chief guide Nick Yardley and his assistants are ace climbers
and
equally skilled teachers. Most courses have a 3:1 maximum student/guide
ratio, and IMCS uses progressive techniques and state-of-the-art
equipment.
Train on weekdays if you can--you'll find the most popular training routes
at
North Conway's Cathedral Ledge much less crowded then. A daylong rock
class
runs $100 with three climbers, while a 4-day basic course starts at $380,
with group discounts available. Rating: ****
Jackson Hole Mountain Guides & Climbing School
P.O. Box 7477, 165 N. Glenwood, Jackson, WY 83001, (307) 733-4979.
Programs:
mountaineering, rock, ice, guided climbs, winter skills, ski
mountaineering.
AMGA Accredited.
The Jackson Hole Mountain Guides & Climbing school, the only year-round
climbing service in the Tetons, is widely acknowledged as one of the very
best in the business. The school offers a wide variety of programs, with
small cl***** and very skilled guides. Patagonia's company founder, Yvon
Chouinard, has stated that "Jackson Hole Mountain Guides is one of the few
really serious mountain guide services in the States. They not only offer
excellent instruction for the beginning climber but their guides are
qualified to take you on any level climb, whether rock, ice or ski
mountaineering."
For beginners, we suggest the 4-day Grand Teton Climber Course ($500)
which
features an ascent of Grand Teton summit on the final day. Experts will
enjoy
the 8-day Advanced Climbing Course ($1,000). Jackson Hole Mountain Guides
also features outstanding ice seminars, as well as custom guided climbs.
Prices are subject to change. Rating: ****
Mountain Guides Alliance
P.O. Box 266, North Conway, NH 03860, (603) 356-5310, or (603) 447-3086.
Mountain Guides Alliance runs a small operation, but it is outstanding in
every respect. The guides have very strong technical skills, use the
latest
techniques, and are good teachers, especially George Hurley. This isn't
one
of those schools where you'll be dragged behind a guide who is more
interested in demonstrating his own abilities than in sharing his
knowledge
and fostering real enthusiasm. Programs are run on a custom basis, with no
more than two students assigned to a single guide in most situations. In
addition to summer rock programs, the Mountain Guides Alliance runs
excellent
winter ice-climbing programs. Most cl***** range from $90-$135 per day.
Rating: ****]
Seneca Rocks Climbing School
P.O. Box 53, Seneca Rocks, West Virginia 26884, (304) 567-2600, or (304)
567-2254. AMGA Accredited.
The Seneca Rocks in West Virginia's Allegheny Mountains of West Virginia
are
renowned for their dramatic sandstone pinnacles. With very grippy rock
surfaces blessed with an abundance of handholds, this is a great place to
learn the basics. This school has a reputation as one of the best small
climbing schools in the East. The strength of the program is its
commitment
"to produce climbers, not just customers." Instruction is tailored to each
student's abilities, with an emphasis on safety. The 3-day basic and
intermediate programs cost $85-$125 per day. Rating: ****
Sky's The Limit Guide Service & Climbing School
HCR 33, Box 1, Calico Basin--Red Rock, NV 89124-9204, (800) 733-7597,
(702)
363-4533; Fax: (702) 363-0038, E-Mail: skysthelimit.com. AMGA and UIAGM
Accredited.
Red Rock, Nevada, features a wide variety of rock formations, good for
rank
novices to experts, although most routes are best for intermediates and
above. For the past 10 years, under the direction of UIAGM guide Randall
Grandstaff, Sky's the Limit has taught rock technique at this superior,
yet
little-known climbing site. The basic 1-day rock-craft course costs under
$135, while intermediate and advanced cl***** cost a few dollars less.
Advanced weekend seminars in leading, big-wall technique and self-rescue
run
about $260. Rating: ***
Vertical Adventures Climbing School & Guiding Service (VA)
P.O. Box 7548, New****t Beach, CA 92658, (714) 854-6250; Fax: (714)
854-5249.
In the summer, VA operates out of Idyllwild, climbing granite in the
Sierra.
In the winter, it moves to Joshua Tree, one of America's best winter
climbing
areas. Joshua Tree offers an incredible diversity of rock formations,
making
it ideally suited for all levels of climbers. Introductory 1-day courses
cost
about $75, while intermediate cl***** range from $70-$75. Two-day seminars
begin at $145, while the Big Wall Seminar, featuring Yosemite-style
techniques, costs about $200. Rating: ***
Yosemite Mountaineering School and Guide Service
Yosemite National Park, CA 95389, (209) 372-1335 (June-August), or (209)
372-1244 (Sept-May). AMGA Accredited.
Yosemite is the place to learn big-wall climbing. The Yosemite
Mountaineering School (YMS) conducts a full range of cl***** on some of
the
world's finest granite. The 1-day basic or intermediate seminars cost
about
$100 for two persons per guide. The intermediate Level II program
highlights
jamcrack skills, direct aid and self-rescue, and is a prerequisite for
YM's
guided climbs. For strong climbers, YM offers 2-day Advanced Free-Climbing
and Direct Aid seminars for about $170. Even experts can benefit from the
Direct Aid course if they are planning their first long climb. Rating:
****
Transmitted: 94-11-05 01:28:12 EST
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